Riding the wild Balkans: Albania & Montenegro

Because everyone goes to the Alps. Because very few people can point to the Accursed Mountains on a map, and they have a rad name. Because some of Europe's biggest adventure still exists if you know where to look.

The Accursed Mountains rise between Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo in a maze of jagged peaks, deep valleys and isolated settlements where winter still dictates how life works. The mountains get their name from a story in which the devil escaped from hell and decided to spend the day carving out the mountains to torment humanity — luckily for us it's had the opposite effect.

You won't find luxury chalets here. You won't find influencers in moonboots ordering champagne. You won't find lift queues half an hour long either. Instead, you'll find mountain huts, snowmobiles, rakija, local families, deep snow and some of the most overlooked mountains in Europe.

This is not a ski holiday. It's an expedition that just happens to involve an awful lot of skiing.

We begin in Tirana, Albania, before heading north into Montenegro, where one of the Balkans' newest ski resorts forms the opening chapter of the trip. The lifts are modern. The pistes are quiet. The scenery is pretty mental.

For two days we'll ski around Kolašin, exploring forest runs, hunting out fresh snow and, if conditions allow, venturing beyond the marked trails into freeride terrain. This will allow us to get our turns back on point before we leave the ski resort behind.

The road gradually narrows as we leave Kolašin behind. The villages become smaller and the mountains become bigger. Eventually the road disappears altogether.

From the mountain town of Plav we follow part of the legendary Peaks of the Balkans trail towards Albania into the Prokletije National Park. First come the 4x4s to get us to the park before switching up to snowmobiles. Eventually even those give up and we continue on foot across the 500m incline of the Bogicevica Pass.

Carrying only essential gear, we climb through deep winter snow towards the Bogicevica Pass. Three countries spread out before us: Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. Beneath them, hidden deep in the valley below, sits Dobërdol.

A local family will welcome us into a mountain hut heated by wood fires. For a few days, this will be our home — a home that comes with its own private ski area.

Leaving Dobërdol behind, we begin the long journey back towards Tirana through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the Balkans. The roads reappear, and so does the phone signal.

A final night in Tirana gives us a chance to celebrate the week, compare crashes, steal each other's footage and debate the best runs.

The expedition is supported by experienced local guides who know the terrain, weather and mountains. Routes may change according to snow, conditions and local advice. Avalanche safety equipment is provided during cat skiing operations.

Flexibility is part of the experience. Good judgement always comes first.